The tonic, minus the gin

This is just what we needed.

We checked into Iudia last night and were welcomed with a breathtaking view over the Chao Phraya from our residence - Wat Phuttaisawan, the 14th century former digs of King Ramathibodi I, founder of Ayutthaya.

Fronting the Ayutthaya World Heritage Park, Wat Phutthaisawan was cast in a wonderful glow last night. Separated by a mere 100m of water, I felt quite humbled as I looked toward the 'old' world from our chic surrounds.

I was reading only the other day about Robert the Bruce, the great Scottish King, who would have been a regal contemporary of King Ramathibodi. Around about the same time big Bob was smashing the English, Ramathibodi was establishing the structural ingredients of Siamese government. (It's sometimes useful to try to put Asian history into a European context - I often find it hard to find a conceptual anchor.)

Right now, it's dawn and I'm overlooking the Wat Phutthaisawan again, this time cast in a more natural light, listening to the melodious combination of morning birdsong, Islamic call to prayer and monks chanting - a really special opportunity.

There's also a bloke up river in a small boat who's just cast his nets for this morning - made me think of being out in the tinnie with Dad at first light.

This place rocks.

And there's not a Cosmopolitan Bride magazine anywhere in sight.

Chiang Rai

A couple of months back, Clare and I ducked up north for a long weekend to check out Chiang Rai province.

Chiang Rai would have to be one of my favourite destinations in Thailand for a couple of reasons. Firstly, the greenery was a welcome change from the Bangkok polution and concrete jungle - it was great to just look out the car window and see nothing but bush or rice paddies all the way to the horizon.

The diversity of the landscape kept Clare and I guessing - with the mountainous region in the west and flat rice fields in the east. Chiang Rai reminded me somewhat of the Northern rivers region of NSW, with the long lowland landscapes and hilly regions. Less hippies though.

I also loved the individual little villages and genuine culture - too often have I seen Thai's cash in on their country's cultural heritage...a bit like Rolf Harris selling albums to the poms! Clare and I felt lucky to see people working in the fields in their colourful traditional clothing, and the Chinese influence of migrant communities in the north...it all seemed such a world away from the streets of Patong, Pattaya and Sukhumvit.

The area also has a rich history, being at the crossroads of trans-Asian trade for centuries. Most recently, the opium trade brought black prosperity to the people of the region, however this seems to have been thwarted, at least in Thailand, by concerted efforts by the Thai government, Royal family and international pressure.

So we hired a car, covering about 500km over three days of winding roads and pot holes like doorways to the depths of hell. We dodged herds of cattle, dudes in ramshackle tractors, random chickens crossing the road (there's got to be a joke there somewhere...) and of course full families on motorbikes.

We visited the Chinese migrant town of Mae Salong; Doi Tung, the mountaintop place of royal residence and religious focus, including the royal botanic gardens; the many small rural towns dotted around the provincial countryside; a random guy's farm, after getting a little sidetracked; and a national park just north of Chiang Rai city. There's a lot to be said as well for the many hours we spent just cruising around.

Somewhere in the Phu Chi Fa mountain range - the landscapes here were terrific, when Clare and I were driving through, wispy clouds were rising through the range as the morning woke up. What was previously opium country, fruit, coffee and macadamia nuts are now grown in the area. Note the small rain shelter here used by workers during heavy storms.

Another shot of some of the mountain ranges Clare and I drove through. Pretty sweet.

Closeup shot of one of the flowers at the Mae Fah Luang botanic gardens on Doi Tung. The gardens were terrifically landscaped - rainforest, roses, water-flora, an orchid farm and a cracking little cafe among other things. Mum, you would have absolutely loved the rose garden - was about the size of a football field.

Clare smelling the roses.

It rained a bit when we visited the province, and I loved it.

Why bother with an umbrella when you can just stick a plastic bag on your head?

Driving around some of the lowlands. In the background you can see rice paddies stretching out into the mountains. Whilst this particular photo doesn't really do it justice, the colour of the paddies was breathtaking, reminscent of Young in canola season.

Casualty.

Clare and I with the Jazz in front of a great statue of Buddha. This photo was taken up near the junction of Laos, Myanmar and Thailand - AKA 'Golden Triangle'.

Looking down the Mekong toward Laos.

Navigating in Thai script was a growth experience.

Rice paddy and rain shelter.

German backpacker?? Ya - das vatervall iss goot.

The Khun Kon waterfall in one of Chiang Rai's national parks - it was a really great little trek up to see this one, Clare loved it. As we got higher in elevation the flora changed...there were also heaps of small insects and butterflies, indicating the area is still in pretty good nick.

Click the images for a higher-res, more detailed look at some of the landscapes.

The security of tomorrow's Thailand

I attended a small Australian Chamber of Commerce luncheon today about the ‘certainty and uncertainty of Thai politics’, presented by the Editor-in-Chief of the Bangkok Post/Post Today - what’s for certain is that I am even more confused!

I sat next to Natchaon, a young Thai woman who is currently completing her second masters degree. Khun Natchaon is studying consumer behaviour specifically relating to home and personal security (random!). Some of her interim findings were interesting from a sociological perspective…

Over this way ‘luck’ and ‘karma’ provide ways for Thais to order and explain life’s events. If, for instance, you are hit by a motorbike on your way to work, a traditional Thai would explain it as an imbalance of bad karma – doing too many bad things, or not enough of the good. To counter this imbalance, many Thais ‘make merit’ by giving to the poor, helping monks etc. It’s all part of the social fabric over here.

Despite this, Khun Natchaon found respondents to have differing attitudes to personal and home security, largely based along generational lines.

Those up to the age of 30 tended to be more inclined to purchase personal security products. Those aged over 30 were not so inclined to purchase products like home CCTV or electronic access, as they believe an instance of home robbery (‘bad luck’) is an uncontrollable occurrence directly resulting from their own karma inaction, thus a bad way to spend their money.

Why is this interesting?

It shows that for good or bad, Thailand’s next generation (middle class and up) are changing the way Thai’s frame their lives. The next generation are becoming more proactive in taking control of their life, which will no doubt flow into issues of politics and democracy, consumerism, the relevance of Buddhism, the family unit, socialism vs capitalism, and the monarchy.

Thailand will be very different in twenty years time…

We live in Bangkok

A couple of snaps from our place here in Bangkok!

Looking toward the north from our bedroom window. We get some amazing sunsets, especially during the monsoon season as thick clouds engulf the city. This part of the city is home to an eclectic mix of Hindu, Muslim and Buddhist cultures, with the Islamic Call to Prayer often heard just before the sun sets.

View from our bedroom balcony, bearing north-west. You may notice the low-lying buildings surrounding the odd high-rise. We live on the 18th floor of a 38-floor building. About 1km away behind the large buildings is the snaking Chao Phraya River and further north is the royal palace and some of Thailand's most revered temples.

Looking toward the east from our living room balcony as night falls. There's quite a lot of building happening at the moment, illustrated by the new W Hotel going up in the foreground. This area is Bangkok's main financial, embassy and flash hotel district. Also of note is the constant flow of traffic along Sathorn Road below, as well as the sky train tracks passing over the motorist's heads.

Spiritual Thailand

The King and I.
Note the fetching pair of pink fisherman pants. Apparently footie shorts aren't acceptable in the temple.

Buddhism and Thailand are about as symbiotic as schooners and doritos.

Approximately 94% of Thais are practicing Buddhists, with Wats (religious areas) nearly as common on street corners as Thailand's pseudo-capitalist shrine, the 7-Eleven. Even when hurtling full-pelt past a Wat in the back of a tuk-tuk, Thais will still manage to pay homage with a respectful Wai (like a bow using the hands).

Monks here are like William Shatner at a Star Trek convention. Even the poorest of Thais would offer what alms they can at the beginning of the day in respect of their religion and the monks' devotion.

Religious festivals are widely respected as times for religious observance and self-reflection. Clare and I were lucky enough to be close to one of Thailand's most revered Wats whilst visiting Chiang Mai during the Songkran Festival.

So we took the 45-minute sawngthaew up to the top of the area's tallest mountain to check out Wat Prathat Doi Sutep (Prathat temple on Mount Doi Sutep) - an amazing 625 year-old religious stalwart, roughly 15km across and 1.3km vertical from Chiang Mai city.

It was one of those moments I was stoked to have taken 2-unit Studies of Religion way back in 2000-2001 with that wonderful teacher Mrs Sue Kane. It was another unique opportunity to not only understand and appreciate a bit more about the core of Thailand's psyche, but also the peaceful, inward-looking, outward-acting religion.

Just like when we visited the Malaysian national mosque back in March, I was again thrown into wonder - why are people so drawn to religion...what are their motivations??? Maybe I was just getting high from all of the incense smoke...

Here's a few cool pics from the day...

(Left) This one's kind of cool - Thais line up in front of the little Buddhas and spoon sacred burning oil into each of the little cups, saying prayers along the way. This is usually accompanied by a Wai.

(Above right) Similar to left, Thai Buddhists toll the bells, sending prayers as the chime reverberates. Bells were tolling all day. It was sort of like a religious rock concert.

Clare and I in front of a great big bell, donated by a rich Thai businessman. In 1977, one of these cost THB100,000 (AUD$3,000).

This is a picture of me getting blessed by one of the monks in the temple. No need to worry - I haven't converted. It was a very spiritual experience though. I asked him to bless Clare and I with good fortune for our travels. I suppose it's worked - I still haven't been hit by a high tuk-tuk driver or mauled by a soi dog.

As I mentioned earlier, there was more smoke there than on Day 1 of a rehab clinic. Here, Thai's offer gifts and light incense sticks in respect to Buddha.